St Matthew's Guild

Costume Committee

Introduction

This isn't a how-to, but rather a what-to guide. The purpose here isn't to give instructions, but rather a basic overview so you know what you'll need to make, borrow, or buy. Your local costuming chair will happily guide you to patterns, resources, and other help when you're ready.

Instructions for using patterns.

Peasant Class

Women • Men • Unisex

Unfortunately, we don't have very many records of what the lower classes wore during the sixteenth century. Detailed portraits of nobility and the upper and middle classes abound, but no one much cared to chronicle the lives of peasants. A few scattered descriptions and portraits of sundry townsfolk have survived, but for the most part the tradition of Reniassance faire peasant garb is based on conjecture rather than fact.

I make no claims to be an expert on the subject, but I did do as much research as I could at my university library, and what I found contradicted the prevailing Ren Faire fashions. For example, the only painting I found depicting English townsfolk, "A Country Wedding", shows even the most poorly dressed women sporting neat, matching black bodices and skirts--but both matching and black are considered no-nos for peasants in the faire tradition. Most of the women in this picture wear what appear to be large white shawls over their shoulders; again, this is something seldom seen at faire. From what I can tell, English country folk dressed pretty nicely, at least for special occasions.

So--I would encourage members striving for accuracy to poke around in the St. Matt's resources and at the library and model their costuming on what we know really existed. That's the direction I went with my latest peasant costume, and I'm pleased with the results (although everyone tells me I look like a Puritan when I wear it--and it's not even black!) However, many people who are just getting into Renaissance Faires are looking for a fast, inexpensive way to get started, so here's a rundown of "the way it's done" at faires. Costumes that follow the guidelines below should pass costume check with no problems, but if this is your first outfit, it's best to run fabrics and designs past the costume chair before investing time or money.

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Women

The basic women's outfit is quite simple: a bodice, a chemise, one or more skirts, a hat, a belt, leg coverings, and shoes.

Chemise

The basic women's shirt takes two forms: the "peasant blouse," a full shirt gathered and tied at the neck and wrists (think cheesy Mexican restaurant waitress outfit minus the trim), and the . . . well, the other kind, which is more like a regular shirt, slit part way down the front, with cuffs and collar sewn in. The peasant blouse is easy and fast to sew; the other kind is a little more complicated, but still not too great a challenge. Commercial patterns are available for both. Unbleached muslin makes a very nice--and inexpensive--peasant chemise; avoid pure whites or delicate textures. Although fancy trims would have been beyond the reach of the lower classes, a little embroidered blackwork wouldn't be out of line (nothing too elaborate).

Bodice

We assume that peasant bodices would have been modeled on the bodices of the upper classes, with appropriate modifications. The bodice would be square or scoop-necked, laced or buttoned up the front, with armholes big enough to allow for free movement of the arms and shoulders. When you fit your bodice, remember that the bodice takes the place of a bra--if you have to wear a bra under it, it doesn't fit right. Small-busted women might be able to get away with boning just down the front edges (to keep the lacing from bunching the fabric); more generously endowed women will probably need to add boning down the sides and at a diagonal across the front for added support. (Personally, I wear a fully-boned corset under peasant clothes because I find it more comfortable, but that's extreme.) Don't get the flexible plastic boning available at fabric stores; it just doesn't hold up and the bottom of your bodice will be curling up after a few wearings. Order steel boning from one of the many specialty suppliers who carry it. Traditionally, people have put grommets in the lace holes, but I can't find any evidence this was actually done; use buttonholes instead. (Looks nicer, anyway.) Keep the fabric in a peasant bodice simple--a little texture is fine, but stay away from brocades and damask patterns. If you want to dress your bodice up, add tabs to the waist and shoulders, or sew a little ribbon or contrasting fabric up the front. Detachable sleeves of the plainer variety are great, too.

Skirts

The easiest way: sew several panels together, sew a casing, and gather the waist with a cord. This leads to a lot of fabric around the waist, of course, so many prefer to make a gored skirt (in which triangular panels are gathered or pleated into a waistband). You can wear two skirts, the nicer on top and tucked into a belt to keep it clean, or one skirt down--when made to match the bodice, a cleaner look. Avoid splitting the top skirt down the front to reveal the underskirt; this is a look for the middle classes and above. Skirts should hide the ankles but not touch the ground.

Hats

Everyone past childhood wore a hat in Renaissance England--perhaps the custom was so strong because the weather was so cold. The basic hats for peasant women are the biggins, a close-fitting little cap, and the "muffin cap," so called because the top--a big circle gathered into a band--looks like a muffin (didn't see that coming, did ya?) Top either with a wide-brimmed straw hat and you are the height of peasant fashion.

Leg Coverings

I know--it's hot at Ren faire, and it seems like torture to have to cover your legs. But it's a must--revealing any ankle or leg was a big taboo. Cotton tights work well, as does a sock/bloomer combination; just make sure no skin shows. Remember, even though your skirts may cover your legs when you're standing still, as you walk, sit, dance, whatever, people will be able to see your legs. So cover 'em up!

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Men

Once again, the basic men's outfit is very simple: a shirt, pants, a jerkin or doublet, a hat, shoes, and a few accessories and you're good to go.

Shirt

The drawstring shirt described in the women's section will work for a really poor peasant--just size it more generously. A more common look is close to what we think of as a "pirate" shirt: a blousy shirt with a slit partway down the front, collar points, full sleeves gathered into cuffs, with or without yoke. The standing collar with pleats and cuffs with pleats are for middle class and above.

Jerkin

A jerkin is basically a vest. If your character is very poor, your jerkin should be made of very rough material and fit like the proverbial potato sack. The roughest jerkin is really two upper-body-sized rectangles, sewn together at the shoulders and sides, slit down the front, with arm and neck holes cut out. (With finished edges, of course, unless you want to be the grungiest of the grungy. Which isn't that hard by Sunday afternoon at a faire with no showers . . .) Someone with a little more cash would have a more closely fitting garment, maybe with some tabs at the waist and armholes and even some trim. Lace or button it, keeping the relative wealth of your character in mind as you select materials. Belt it if you wish, especially the looser variety.

Pants

They didn't call them "pants," actually. You have several choices of bottom wear: trews, breeches, or venetians. Trews are long pants that fit like pajamas: a pajama or a "baggies" pattern works well if you omit the pockets. Substitute a drawstring for elastic at the waist (and don't gather at the ankle if the pattern calls for it). You might even add a waistband if you're feeling saucy. Wear trews "cross-gartered": that is, wrap a yard or two of cotton or leather cord over each pant leg from the ankle to below the knee, crossing in front and back. (This kept the trews cleaner and out of the way. Think bicycle pant clips.)

Breeches are a bit nicer. These are full pants that end just above or below the knee. Easy version: use that pajama bottoms pattern again, this time adding fullness throughout, especially in the legs. Measure from waist to knee (above or below) and add about five inches for poofiness. Make casings at the waist and knees and close with drawstrings. Slightly more complicated: the same, only with a fly, buttoned waistband, and knee "cuffs" closed with buttons or ties. Add a modest codpiece (a flat upside down triangle of fabric over the fly) if you so desire. (The big stuffed codpieces of Henry's day were out of fashion by Elizabeth's time, thank heavens, and were for the rich anyway.)

Venetians are the most fashionable pants peasants might wear. These short pants, in fact, were worn by everyone from the better-off peasants to the nobility. Venetians are similar to nicer breeches, except they are fuller around the hips and fit more closely around the thighs and knees for a tapering, less puffy look. Like breeches, they hit above or below the knee. Be sure not to hit at the knee--it will be hard to sit. (Ask my husband about the first pair of pants I made him.)

Hats

The biggins or muffin cap and straw hat look described in the women's section works for guys, too. (Did women borrow their husbands' clothes even back then? Hmm.) Another spiffy option is the flat cap, which is, as you might suppose, a flat cap. Save the flat cap for slightly nicer peasant outfits.

Women • Unisex • Top

Unisex

Shoes

Shoes are often the most challenging part of a costume. The cheapest way is to get some karate shoes--the mary-jane style is best. However, I strongly recommend that you invest in a quality pair of Ren shoes, because a long day standing and running around is hell in cheap shoes. Many people spend about $50 on Minnetoka boot moccasins; cut the fringe off, and you have a passable shoe. Consider buying them a size too big and adding nice insoles. At many faires there are shoe vendors who cater to the Ren crowd, making high-quality, (mostly) historical shoes in the $40-$70 range that will leave your footsies happy and pain-free even after three dance sets a day. (They all have rubber soles--oh well. Leather just wouldn't last.) At the very top of the line, you can have shoes custom made to the tune of about $600. Personally, I'd say invest it in some nice long-term bonds instead.

Accessories

Find yourself a sturdy, plain leather belt; sew a little drawstring pouch to hold your sundries. Be sure to have a drinking vessel of wood, brass, or pewter (but not the kind with the glass bottom--wrong era). Many people like to attach a spoon, eating knife, bells, and even a soup bowl to their belts; I always ended up impaling myself somewhere uncomfortable when I sat down so abandoned the practice. Use a basket to carry bigger stuff and things you need to hide. After you get the basics together, a long cloak of wool or other heavy fabric is a nice touch--it can be cold at some faires. (Ask anyone who was at the first Valhalla.) If you do all of these things and still feel the need to keep adding, it's time to make yourself a middle-class outfit.

Swords

Sorry, but no. Only those of rank and/or wealth got to carry swords, unless they were in the military--and then they weren't peasants. Even then, there were restrictions about walking around town with a weapon. A working knife--a 8" to 10" blade with a rugged handle--is okay, but it really doesn't have that swashbuckling effect. And women: absolutely not. No way. No how. No elaborate stories justifying it.

Materials

We're quite limited in the fabrics we can use--basically, wool, linen, and cotton, but not polished cotton. (And even cotton is technically wrong--as a New World import, it was horrifically expensive. But practicality and cost make it a necessary compromise.) As you look through the bolts of bargain fabrics, you will be tempted by poly/cotton blends--don't. They don't wear the same, and you'll sweat a lot. Trust me on this one. Muslin is great for chemises; canvas and broadcloth work well for skirts and bodices. Crinkly gauze is out, even though you see a lot of it at clothing booths at faires. Cordoroy is debatable: although they had a type of cordoroy, it apparently didn't look like modern waled cordoroy and it was costly to boot. Northern faire is phasing it out, and so are we. No brocades, prints, damask or jaquard weaves, or plastic-backed upolstery fabrics. Be careful buying flatfolds--it's very hard to tell the fabric content.

Colors

Extensive lists of historical colors are available elsewhere, so I'll keep it brief here. Basically, earthtones, naturals, and navys are always safe. Jewel or very rich tones were beyond the reach of peasants, although they were available to the wealthy. Pastels were available, but use them sparingly lest you look like an Easter egg rather than a Reniassance woman. Pure white required an expensive bleaching process, so it, too, was for the upper classes. As I said before, black is traditionally verboten, but I'm going to buck the trend here and say that under certain (historically supportable) conditions, black is okay. Talk to the costume chair about this before you buy. Finally, true purples are reserved for the monarch (for theatrical, not historical purposes), and true reds are reserved for nobility (again, a theatrical decision).

Trims

The poorest should have virtually no trim at all; better-off folk might have a bit of ribbon or fancier trim. Grograin ribbon works, as does simple gimp; silky or satiny trim, no. Metallics are right out. Lace was just coming into vogue and was beaucoup expensive, so it's out, too. Leather, wood, or bone buttons are fine; so are plain metal buttons in moderation. Use contrasting fabric to trim bodices, skirts, or sleeves.

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