St Matthew's Guild

Costume Committee

Patterns and Tips for Sewing Renaissance Costumes

Under construction . . . just getting started! If you have luck adapting commercially available patterns so they work for period clothing, please share your tips so I can post them.

Women's Clothing

Peasant woman's chemise

Simplicity 9582, view D

This chemise makes up quickly with a minimum of alteration. Add some additional length to the neckline and cuffs, then fold material over to inside to form casing; do not trim with lace as shown. Replace elastic with cotton string run through casings. (The cuffs as shown on the pattern are a little too floppy.) Extra fullness can be added through the body and sleeves, if desired. Remember--peasant women may wear shirts like this with the neckline low, but never exposing their shoulders.

Upper middle-class/noblewoman's bodice

Tip: Be sure to try your bodice on over your completed outfit before you finish it off. The first outfit I made, I fit it over everything but the bumroll--big mistake. Once the roll was on, it pushed the bodice up, making the tabs stick out and the stomach gather. I had to take the whole thing apart and whack about 1 1/2 inches off the bottom. I learned my lesson . . .

Upper middle-class/noblewoman's outer skirt

Tip: to achieve a perfect cartridge pleat without all the measuring, use drapery tape. It comes in various thicknesses, and has between 1-3 strings run through its length; sew the fabric to the tape, pull the strings, and voila! Perfect pleats every time. It's available at any fabric store for less than a buck a yard; make sure the kind you get pulls into even pleats, not a fancy pattern, and look for at least two strings for strength. I usually use the kind with two, and then run three stitches--above, below, and between the strings. If you are working with thin fabric, you might have to fold the top over an extra time or two to make the thickness right; be sure to check before you cut the skirt's length! (Probably every professional costumer in the world knows about this trick, but I figured it out all by myself, so can I have a little credit?)

Men's Clothing

Basic man's shirt

Eagle's View Patterns Authentic American Shirt
As the title suggests, not really a Renaissance pattern . . . but the basic version will do with some minor variations. Leave off the gathered cuff frill, and widen the cuff itself a bit. Pointy-collared shirts are less common at fair than those with stand-up collars, I think, but both are period.

Doublet

Fantasy Fashions Dashing Doublets
A very versitile pattern; includes variations suitable for everyone from a simple peasant to a nobleman. The directions are fairly clear, and I have heard positive comments from those who have used it (I haven't yet). The directions do, perhaps, make it seem a little easier to make a fancy doublet than it really is--if you are just starting out, consider keeping it simple.

Bottoms

Fantasy Fashions Paned Slops and Breeches
Another pattern that offers a full range, from peasant to noble. Those who have used this pattern said it went together nicely. (My copy sits on a shelf--somehow, it's always more fun to make costumes for myself than for my husband . . . .)

Unisex Clothing

Upper middle-class/noble's shirt

Alteryears Pattern 011(AY)
Rather than the usual inset sleeves, this pattern runs the sleeve line right up into the collar. Advantages: it goes together amazingly quickly, once the boxpleats are done (or if you skip them altogether). Disadvantages: this makes for a lot of fabric under the arms--potentially a problem in bodices or doublets with close-fitting sleeves. A note: the shirt is split all the way down the front for both men and women; the directions say to sew the two front pieces together part of the way up for a man's shirt. If the resulting seam down the front of the shirt bothers you, you'll want to allow extra fabric so you can cut that piece on a fold.

Children's Clothing

Accessories

Tall boots

Tandy Leather Plainsman Boot Pattern
Not really historical, but close enough. Don't put fringe on them, and use a sturdy sole. Leave enough room for some nice comfort insoles--your feet will thank you after a long, hot day.